Sri Lankan cultural triangle

March 7, 2019September 15, 2021Sri Lanka Pankaja

Often referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Indian Ocean’, Sri Lanka has been known by various other names in its history. Ancient Indians termed it ‘Tambapanni‘. The ancient Greeks referred to it as ‘Tabropane‘ (probably a rough translation of ‘Tambapanni‘). To the Sinhalese, it was ‘Lankadwipa‘. The Persians & Arabs called it ‘Serendip‘ (Interestingly, ‘Serendip‘ is the origin of the word ‘Serendipity‘). The Portugese, Dutch & English called it ‘Ceylon‘!

We visited Sri Lanka years before the devastating terrorist attacks of 2019. Tourism is a much needed lifeline for the country’s economy, and the terror attacks have all but decimated it. The government is now putting in solid measures to revive tourism here – enhancing security measures, strengthening law enforcement and granting visa free travel for quite a few western countries being just a few of those. We hope this paradise lost starts thriving again soon.

What we saw here when we visited impressed us deeply. Tourism still in its nascent stages & a country packed with ancient cities, cultural treasures, pristine beaches, spectacular biodiversity & a superb food culture, we felt Sri Lanka offered fantastic value for money. People here were mild-mannered, almost to a fault. Wherever we went, we were greeted with smiles. It was a far cry from the hustle you experience at most popular tourist destinations in India.

Like most visitors to Sri Lanka, we started our journey with the cultural triangle before heading inwards to the lush tea plantations of Nuwura Eliya and Ella at the heart of the island. This blog is an account of our travels to the cultural triangle. We have a separate post on Ella here as well. We hope to visit again soon, this time heading to the beaches of Galle.

1. Stupas of Anuradhapura

An ancient capital city, Anuradhapura is a well known Buddhist place of pilgrimage that is sprawling with temples, stupas and monasteries. It is an UNESCO World Heritage site, and a sacred center for Theravada Buddhism. It rose into prominence after a branch of the sacred Maha Bodhi (fig) tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment was brought and planted here.

We recommend the following attractions here:

Isurumuniye Vihara: Small charming rock temple set around a lotus pond. This place also features the famous “lovers” sculpture.
Jetavanarama Stupa: This behemoth 70+ meters dome is built with more than 90 million bricks, and is said to be the third largest structure in the world at the time of its construction.
Ruvanvelisaya Stupa: This gleaming white stupa is said to enshrine the begging bowl of the Buddha. A series of black elephants carved into wall one next to each other welcomes tourists as they enter this stupa.
Mirisawatiya Vihara: Built by King Dutugemunu, many legends surround why the Stupa was built. One legend has it that the King planted his scepter containing Buddha relics before taking a dip at the Tissa Wewa. On his return, neither he nor any of his entourage could pick it up. Considering this a sign, the stupa was built where the scepter was planted. Another legend has it that the King ate a chili curry (mirisa is chili in the local language) before offering it to the Sangha (the Buddhist clergy). He built the Stupa to ask for forgiveness.

Be warned, however, that Anuradhapura is not for everyone. If history, religion & culture are not high on your list, or if you are weary of crowds, Anuradhapura will feel like an overload, an endless parade of stupas & temples. For the uninitiated, the stupas are primordial & mysterious from the distance, but might seem underwhelming when you realize that all you can do really is walk around them from the outside. If this is not your cup of tea, you should give Anuradhapura a pass.

If you do decide to visit, please keep in mind that most of these sites are teeming with crowds, and require you to walk barefoot – a particularly harrowing prospect in the heat of summer. Do wear thick socks and a hat!

Clockwise from Top left: Langur Monkeys galore in Anurdhapura; Mirisawatiya vihara stupa; Dad & mom at the Jetavanarama stupa; Seated Buddha at the Mirisawatiya vihara entrance

Our Stay:

We stayed in a rustic countryside bungalow booked through AirBnB. Directly across from the religious structures at the banks of the Tissa Wewa, the verandah opened up to a garden and a small patch of paddy fields that led to a lake. Morning walks were just idyllic and picture perfect! The bungalow was beautifully built – open, and airy. And breakfasts were just such a delight – wood apple juice & fresh fruits from the garden in the backyard.

Clockwise from Top left: Family photo outside our home stay at the banks of the Tissa Wewa river directly opposite the stupas of Anuradhapura; Breakfast of champions – banana, bread & omelette, papaya with a dash of lime & fresh squeezed wood apple juice; Lone fisherman at the Tissa Wewa; Sunrise pic with Pankaja

2. Ruins of Polonnaruwa

Our next stop was Polonnaruwa, just a short drive two hours away from Anuradhapura. It is the second most ancient capital city in Sri Lanka, established by the Chola dynasty after their conquest and sacking of Anuradhapura. It was held by the Cholas until 1070, when King Vijayabahu liberated the island & re-established Sinhalese rule.

The city reached its brief zenith under the rule ofKing Parakramabahu I who constructed extensive irrigation systems that are still in use today, unified the three lesser kingdoms of Sri Lanka, and revived Buddhism & expansion of the city. Though ravaged by invasion in the centuries that followed, much of the evidence of the old grandeur & glory of Polonnaruwa still remains.

Clockwise from Top left: Pillars of the Atadage; Moonstone outside the Vatadage; Seated Buddha at the Vatadage; Hatadage Buddha from the entrance

We recommend the following attractions in Polonnaruwa:

Lankatilaka Vihara: This towering 42 feet headless Buddha statue (see featured photo) left us awestruck. Beware of the caretaker! He was zealously protecting the site & diligently scouting out tourists that were not “modestly” dressed & barring them from entering the Sanctum Sanctorum.
Vatadage: This sacred circular temple filled with stone pillars & lavish stone carvings was supposed to have housed the tooth of the Buddha as well as his alms bowl. The entrance is beautifully carved with moonstones. At the top of each flight is a Buddha statue in stone.
Atadage: Ata means eight and this temple, built by King Vijayabahu, is said to have housed eight of Lord Buddha’s relics.
Hatadage: Sitting opposite the Vatadage, the Hatadage houses three Buddha statues supposedly representing the past, future and present.
Rankot Vihara stupa: This is the largest stupa in Polonnaruwa.
Gal Vihara monastery : Gal Vihara or the Rock Temple is considered to be the finest example of ancient Sinhalese sculpting & stone carving art. It comprises four Buddha statues (2 seated, 1 standing & 1 reclining) intricately carved from a large granite boulder.

Top to bottom: Supreme grace & serenity of the colossal 14 meters long reclining Buddha; 4 meters long Buddha seated on a throne in a Padmasana pose

3. 360 degree view atop the Lion Rock (Sigiriya)

Sigiriya (also known as the Lion Rock or Sinhagiri) is easily one of the most iconic and popular destinations in Sri Lanka.

Sigiriya’s tragic history is all about an Anuradhapura Prince’s lust for power. King Dhatusena of Anuradhapura had two sons – Kasyappa & Mogallena. Eldest, but born to a concubine, Prince Kasyappa was not the rightful heir to the throne. Blinded by power, he conspired with the commander of the royal army to oust the King and usurp the throne. His half-brother, Prince Mogallena, fled to South India in fear. Subsequently, enraged at his father, Kasyappa had him killed by entombing him alive. This cruelty earned him the sobriquet ‘Pithru Ghathaka Kasyappa (Kasyappa the Patricide)’ & the dishonor of his people & the Buddhist clergy. Fearful of reprise, Kasyappa moved the capitol from the easily accessible Anuradhapura to the more secure location of Sigiriya rock.

This is how Sigiriya became a capitol city for a brief period of time in Sri Lanka. However, this did not last long. Mogallena returned with his army to claim his throne, and in the ensuing battle, Kasyappa was defeated, and killed himself with his own sword. The capital and the royal palace were abandoned after the king’s death, and was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century.

Clockwise from Top left: Walking towards Sigiriya rock; The final climb to the lion staircase;

Surrounding the Lion Rock is the remains of beautiful royal gardens. The Lion staircase leading to the palace garden at the top of the rock is the most significant feature of this ancient masterpiece.

Top to bottom: The expansive views from atop Sigiriya

Reflections from our Sigiriya visit:

Like most places in the Indian sub-continent, the climate here is tropical – hot and humid. You will be well served wearing a hat, and staying hydrated.
We were worried about the climb up to Sigiriya rock (1,200 stairs in total), especially since we had our parents with us. However, it just sounds more daunting than it actually was. There are plenty of places where you can take a break and catch a breath, and the walk is at a snail’s pace.
Start early, unless you want to hit a traffic jam of people. It is also a lot more cooler in the morning.
We had an unexpected event occur at the ticket booth, we were all ready to head out after buying our tickets when they started playing the Sri Lankan national anthem out of the blue. It didn’t bother us at all, but we were just caught surprised and wondering what this was about.
As with most tourist attractions in India, the ticket price for foreigners (60 rupees for locals, $15 for SAARC countries & $30 for all others at the time of our visit) in Sri Lanka is much higher than the ticket price for locals, and it has to be paid in Sri Lankan rupees. Do be prepared to draw out local currency well in advance.

4. Cave temples at Dambulla

The stunning cave temples at Dambulla are a must visit for anyone visiting the cultural triangle of Sri Lanka. We felt they were so beautiful that they deserved a post of its own.

Top photo: The spectacular frescoes at the main cave temple at Dambulla

5. Elephants at Kaudulla

Over liberal servings of scrumptious dhaal (lentil) curry, pol sambol (coconut relish), beetroot curry, rice and wambatu moju (brinjal pickle) at our roadside restaurant, we were busy plotting out what to do for the remainder of our day at Sigiriya. Choices here seemed bleak. Our ever helpful & friendly driver Sisira, recommended we do an elephant safari at the Kaudulla National park, just short of an hour’s drive from Sigiriya. With a choice of either an afternoon siesta at our Habarana hotel, or the safari, we all voted for the latter.

It all started with us hiring a Jeep safari with an open roof & a local authorized driver & guide. The weather was perfect. We did not know what to expect & were hoping to catch a glimpse of an elephant or two from a distance. The drive through the National park was rugged and bumpy. We did see see plenty of bird life, monkeys, deer, peacocks, monitor lizards, water buffalos & crocodiles in the water reservoir next to the mud road, but no signs of any big mammals.

After about 20 minutes of drive, there they were – not one, not two, but elephants in many herds of 15-20 each, grazing in the fields next to the river. It was just a sheer unbridled pleasure to watch these majestic creatures in their natural home. We were filled with awe & were oohing and aahing at the antics of the baby elephants & the majesty of the matriarchs alike the whole time.

On a poignant note, though most of the safari drivers were very considerate, there were a few who felt the need to go that little bit closer to these gentle giants so their clients can get the winning shot. You could clearly sense the elephants starting to get distressed. The elephants also started gathering in bigger numbers during sunset, and we felt the safari jeeps were overcrowding the place. We left with bittersweet memories from our trip. I think it is key that the safaris are regulated, and that the park officials limit the number of jeeps that they let in.